Because that BBQ sauce stain isn’t going to wash itself…
Let me tell you about the day I almost had a complete breakdown over barbecue sauce. There I was, enjoying a perfectly good pulled pork sandwich at the Rhinebeck Sheep & Wool festival, when a rogue glob of sauce decided my hand-knit sweater looked like a better landing spot than my plate. My beautiful, lovingly-crafted Love Witch sweater (by Disco Knits). A sweater that I’d spent weeks on. A sweater that I’ve been too terrified to wash in a machine.
If you’ve ever broken out in a cold sweat at the thought of washing your hand knits, you’re not alone. I’ve been there. I’ve lived there. I’ve set up permanent residence in the land of “I’ll just spot clean, air it out, and hope for the best.” Don’t you dare judge me!
But here’s the thing: we spend HOURS creating these gorgeous pieces. We invest our time, our money, and honestly, a little piece of our soul into every stitch. And then we’re too afraid to actually care for them properly? That ends today.
Why Are We All So Scared of Washing Hand Knits?
Let’s be real. The fear is valid. We’ve all heard the horror stories:
- The cashmere sweater that became a doll-sized felted disaster
- The wool blanket that could now fit a hamster
- The “I threw it in the dryer for just five minutes” tragedy
But avoiding washing your knits altogether isn’t the answer either. Oils from your skin, perfumes, food spills (I’m looking at you, BBQ sauce), and general life grime can actually damage the fibers over time. Plus, moths LOVE dirty wool. Like, really love it. Don’t give them the satisfaction.
When Should You Actually Wash Your Hand Knits?
Good news: you don’t need to wash your hand knits as often as you think!
Wash your knits when:
- They’re visibly dirty or stained
- They smell (no judgment, it happens)
- At the end of the season before storing them away
- After finishing a new project (yes, before you wear it!)
Between washes:
- Let them air out overnight draped over a chair
- Give them a gentle shake
- Use a steamer to refresh and remove wrinkles
- Rotate your knits so they get a break between wears (24 hours is ideal)
I typically wash my sweaters maybe once or twice a season unless there’s a specific incident.
What You’ll Need to Wash Your Hand Knits
Here’s where I’m going to share my actual setup, because after years of avoiding this task, I’ve finally found a system that works for my tiny apartment life.
The Essentials:
- A gentle wool wash – I use Soak and I’m obsessed. It’s rinse-free (yes, RINSE-FREE), which means one less step and less handling of your delicate knits. It also adds lanolin back into the fibers, which keeps them soft and fresh.
- A basin or sink – This is where my game-changer comes in…
- The Strucket (and hear me out on this one!)
Okay, so I need to tell you about my new favorite tool: the Strucket. When I partnered with them, I wasn’t expecting to actually fall in love with this product, but here we are (the wedding is next week).
Here’s why it’s perfect for apartment-dwelling yarn enthusiasts like me:
- It fits on your counter – My kitchen sink is tiny, and I can still use it while the Strucket sits on the counter
- The strainer clicks into place – Lift it up, lock it, and your knits drain without you having to touch dirty water (sensitive skin friends, this is for us!)
- No heavy lifting – The built-in drain plug means you’re not wrestling with a basin full of water
It’s basically designed for people who want to care for their hand knits without the hassle. And honestly? It’s made me WANT to wash my sweaters, which is a sentence I never thought I’d say.
- Clean, dry towels – Have at least 2-3 ready
- A flat drying surface – Could be a drying rack, a clean floor space, or even your bed with towels on it
The Step-by-Step Guide to Washing Your Hand Knits
Alright, let’s do this! I’m breaking it down into super simple steps because that’s how I need it, and I’m guessing you do too.
Step 1: Read the Yarn Label (Do As I Say, Not As I’ve Done)
Before you start, check your yarn label if you still have it. Most hand-knit-worthy yarns are safe to hand wash, but some might be superwash wool (machine washable on delicate) or have special care instructions.
Pro tip: Take a photo of the yarn label when you start a project. Future you will be very grateful.
Step 2: Prepare Your Washing Station
Fill your basin, sink, or Strucket with cool to lukewarm water – never hot! Hot water = felting = tears.
For Soak, I use about 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. If you’re using a different wool wash, follow the instructions on the bottle.
Important: Add the soap to the water FIRST and mix it around before adding your knit. This ensures even distribution and prevents concentrated soap from sitting on one spot of your beautiful work.
Step 3: Submerge and Soak
Gently place your knit into the water. Push it down so it’s completely submerged, making sure all the air bubbles are out.
Here’s what you DON’T do:
- Don’t agitate it aggressively
- Don’t rub it like you’re trying to start a fire
- Don’t wring it
- Don’t let it soak for hours on end
Here’s what you DO:
- Let it soak for 10-20 minutes (set a timer so you don’t forget it like I definitely haven’t done… multiple times)
- Give it a gentle squeeze or two if there are particularly dirty spots
- Leave it alone and go watch an episode of something while you wait
If you’re using the Strucket: This is where it really shines. Everything stays contained, and you can literally walk away without worrying about sink space.
Step 4: Drain (Not Rinse!)
If you’re using Soak (or another rinse-free wool wash), you can skip straight to draining. This is one of my favorite things about it – less handling means less risk of stretching or felting.
With a regular sink:
- Gently press the knit to the bottom of the sink
- Let the water drain
- Carefully bundle the knit (don’t pick it up by the shoulders or sleeves!)
With the Strucket:
- Lift the strainer and click it into place
- Pull the external plug
- Watch the water drain while your knit stays safely suspended
- Your hands never touch dirty water (seriously, this is the best part)
Step 5: Remove Excess Water
This is crucial. A waterlogged knit is HEAVY and will stretch if you don’t remove excess water properly.
The Towel Roll Method:
- Lay a clean, dry towel flat on a surface
- Place your damp knit on the towel
- Gently reshape it roughly into its correct form
- Roll the towel up like you’re making a burrito
- Press down on the towel (you can even walk on it if it’s a big sweater)
- Unroll and check – if it’s still super wet, repeat with a fresh towel
The Multiple Towel Method: For larger items like sweaters or shawls, you might need 2-3 towels. Don’t be afraid to really press that water out. The knit will thank you.
Step 6: Block and Dry
This is where your knit remembers its shape, so take your time here.
Blocking your knit:
- Lay it flat on a clean, dry surface (blocking mats, a clean floor, your bed with towels)
- Gently shape it to the correct dimensions
- Smooth out the edges
- Pat it into place – don’t pull or stretch aggressively
- Make sure it lies flat without any wrinkles or folds
Drying tips:
- NEVER hang your wet knits to dry (gravity + water weight = stretched out disaster)
- Keep them away from direct heat or sunlight
- Allow plenty of air circulation
- This can take 12-48 hours depending on the thickness
- Flip it over after 12-24 hours to help it dry evenly
Patience test: Press your finger into the fabric. If it’s still damp, it needs more time. Don’t rush this part or you might end up with a musty-smelling sweater.
Special Situations: When Things Go Wrong
“Help, I Got a Stain!”
For spot cleaning between full washes:
- Mix a tiny bit of wool wash with cool water
- Dab (don’t rub!) the stain with a clean cloth
- Blot with a clean, damp cloth to remove soap
- Pat dry with a towel
- Lay flat to finish drying
“My Colors Are Bleeding!”
If you notice dye bleeding during your soak:
- Remove the knit IMMEDIATELY
- Rinse quickly in cool water until the water runs clear
- Add a tablespoon of white vinegar to fresh water and do a quick soak
- Proceed with the normal drying process
Prevention tip: Test for colorfastness before washing by cleaning your swatch and checking if color transfers.
“I Forgot About It in the Water!”
We’ve all been there. If your knit has been soaking for way too long:
- It’s probably fine! Don’t panic
- Just proceed with the normal draining and drying process
- It might take a bit longer to dry
Storing Your Clean Hand Knits
Once your knits are completely dry (and I mean COMPLETELY), it’s time to store them properly.
Do:
- Fold them and store flat in drawers or on shelves
- Add cedar blocks or lavender sachets to deter moths
- Make sure they’re 100% dry before storing
- Store them in breathable cotton bags for long-term storage
Don’t:
- Hang them on hangers (they’ll stretch out)
- Store them in plastic bags (they need to breathe)
- Put them away damp (mildew city!)
- Store them with any lingering stains (moths find this irresistible)
Machine Washing: Should You Risk It?
I know some of you are thinking, “But what about superwash yarn? Can’t I just throw it in the washing machine?”
The answer is… maybe? If your yarn is labeled superwash, technically yes. But even then, I’d recommend:
- Use the delicate/handwash cycle
- Cold water only
- Place the item in a mesh laundry bag
- Use a gentle, wool-safe detergent
- Never, ever put it in the dryer
Personally? I still hand wash my superwash knits. I’ve put too much time into them to risk it, even with a delicate cycle.
The Bottom Line: Your Knits Deserve This
Look, I get it. Hand washing sounds like a whole production. But once you do it a few times, it becomes second nature. It’s honestly pretty meditative – fill, soak, drain, press, dry.
And here’s what I’ve learned: taking care of my hand knits actually makes me love them more. When I put in the effort to wash them properly, I remember why I made them in the first place. I remember the hours I spent choosing the perfect yarn, working through the pattern, fixing my mistakes.
These pieces deserve to be worn. They deserve to be loved. And yes, occasionally they deserve to go on adventures where they will meet BBQ sauce (accidents happen!). But they also deserve proper care so they can last for years.
So grab your Soak, set up your washing station (maybe treat yourself to a Strucket if you’re ready to make hand washing actually enjoyable), and show those beautiful hand knits some love.
Your future self – and your carefully crafted sweaters – will thank you.
Quick Reference Guide
Washing Frequency:
- Most sweaters: 1-2 times per season
- After visible stains: immediately
- New projects: once before first wear
- Before seasonal storage: always
Water Temperature: Cool to lukewarm (never hot!)
Soak Time: 10-20 minutes (set a timer!)
Drying Time: 12-48 hours depending on thickness
Golden Rules:
- Never wring or twist
- Never hang to dry
- Never rush the drying process
- Always block while damp
- When in doubt, be gentle
Have questions about washing your hand knits? Drop them in the comments below! I’d love to hear about your experiences (and any horror stories you’re willing to share – we’ve all been there!)
Pin this post for later so you’ll have it when washing day comes around!
Shop My Recommendations:
- Soak Wool Wash – My go-to rinse-free wool soap
- Strucket – The game-changing strainer bucket that makes hand washing so much easier
Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Bobble. I only recommend products I genuinely use and love!
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